McDonalds is an
American chain recognized worldwide. Its
trademark is branded in the minds of most of the world’s population. There is even a foreign currency index based
on the relative price of a Big Mac, quite accurate to the best of my knowledge.
Having eaten in
its restaurants in three countries, not a serious achievement granted, I have
noticed how much its image is localized even if the food is supposed to be
identical everywhere. (Israel had to plant their previously unplanted potatoes
for it.)
In the United
States, McDonalds is characterized by its flexibility. In the fifties and sixties, what
distinguished it from the other hamburger joints was its extremely limited and
inexpensive menu. The original founders
removed the messy condiments from the public area and created an industrial system
to produce a limited menu, basically hamburger, chips (fries), and milk shakes,
quickly and cheaply. A family could pull
up and get a meal, if you can call it that, in less than two minutes without
spending lots of money. Several decades
later, with weight, sugar, health and competition issues changing the
situation, the new McDonalds is more an anti-McDonalds. The menu is complex, varied, and
expensive. Apparently, the new strategy
is working as the chain is still making money.
So, McDonalds in the United States can be viewed as a mirror, albeit unwilling
at times, of changes in American eating culture.
In France, MacDo,
as it is known, entered a world dominated by the local café and
restaurant. Lunch, being the main meal,
was French, long, and expensive. Adding
some traditional wine with it, a working person could easily lose two hours of
the day. As younger French needed to
compete with those overworked Americans and Germans (whose work week is
unimaginably more than 35 hours), they ignored the outcries of the French
intellectuals and found a cheap, fast alternative – Macdo. You’re in and out within 30 minutes and back
to work. True, it is not particularly
gourmet or French, but it is American, which is cool to non-intellectuals. So, Macdo in France is the youth’s practical
revolt against the French lunch. (I
prefer the latter, but I am half French.)
In Israel, McDonalds
is a goyish invasion. It is certainly
not Israeli, generally not kosher, and definitely American. For Israelis trying to escape from their
culture, there is nothing better. To eat
a cheeseburger under the Golden Arches (but not on Yom Kippur, yet) was
and often still is a statement of identity:
you have gone beyond eating falafel and shwarma. Today, even Arab villages have their local
branches with the menu in Arabic (and Hebrew).
Despite or rather because of its foreignness, I have seen no lack of
customers there.
So, to
paraphrase the Navy song, eat McDonalds and see the world from a different
vantage point.
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