There is something universal about eating in a
restaurant. Wherever you may be, sitting down and having a meal in a restaurant
is somehow familiar and comforting, regardless of the alien world outside the
restaurant window. At the same time, restaurants also reflect local culture,
culinary and other, making it an adventure to find a quality restaurant in an
unfamiliar locale. In practice, the correlation between peripheries, quality
and value is a local variation.
To demonstrate, last night my wife and I went out to
dinner in order to support businesses in the hard-hit northern Galilee where I
live as well as to give my wife a break from cooking. We went to a small
restaurant called Mazaj in the nearby village of Rameh, a mixed village
with Muslims, Christians and Druze. Upon arriving, the waiter brought over a
dozen small bowels of various salads as well as pita bread. We ordered stuffed
boneless chicken on a bed of long rice and almonds and baked Denis fish with French
fries (or chips as they are known to the British). We also ordered a
beer and soft drink. We concluded the meal with a cup of mint tea and a dessert
called “Lebanese nights”, a light semolina cake with whipped cream and syrup.
We were no longer hungry when we left.
To many abroad and even in Israel, on the outside, the
restaurant does not appear to have great potential. It is located slightly off
the main road of the village, next to an auto repair shop. The sign for the
turn, which was never in great condition, has almost completely faded this
winter. The room is spacious, featuring simple wooden tables and chairs. The
waiters are typical for most of Israel: the good ones act like they have been
on the job for three weeks while, in some establishments, one week seems more common. The menu and plating are simple and direct, not screaming out
“sophistication”. As in most Galilee eating spots, you go there for the food,
not the milieu.
By contrast, there is no questioning the quality of
the raw material and cooking. The chicken was crispy on the outside and moist
on the inside. The rice combination was tasty. The chef prepared my wife’s fish
to perfection. The mint in the tea was clearly from the garden. The service was
properly timed, i.e., allowing sufficient time to think, delivering the food nice and hot and clearing away the plates once it became clear we could no
longer eat any more. The chef, who had appeared on television, greeted us when
we entered, answered a question about an item on the menu and asked if we had
enjoyed the meal as we left. The restaurant itself is clean and even enjoys a nice view of
the setting sun. It is not an accident that we return to this restaurant and
that it has survived both Corona and the recent war, events that have
decimated the restaurant business in Israel, especially in the north.
As for value, the prices are quite reasonable for the
area. In the restaurant business, local costs, including rent, food, labor
costs and utilities, vary. Furthermore, the ability for people to eat in
restaurants is dependent on their financial situation and income. As the
Galilee is less developed, people eat out less and are less willing to spend
400-500 NIS for a meal for two ($130 and more). In this case, our meal cost 240
NIS, which is around 80 USD at today’s exchange (noting that the dollar-shekel exchange
rate is at a historical low). For comparison’s sake, 2 McDonald’s McRoyal meals
would cost around 108 NIS (35 USD) while 2 300-gr. Entrecote steaks at a chain
go for 260 NIS. Thus, in terms of the quality-to-cost correlation, the meal
was quite reasonable.
To be clear, locals and visitors eating in any of Tel Aviv’s many fine dining establishments would find much more elegant dining rooms and possibly more sophisticated food. They would also pay far higher prices without blinking an eye. Curiously, the added decor and price do not always guarantee any better food. As for the waiter, it is possible that the waiters are more proficient there.
The correlation
between the elements is quite different from what it is in the Galilee. These
local distinctions also exist in other countries, e.g., Paris versus Brittany.
Thus, location does have a significant impact on restaurants. Not only does it
affect its success, it also influences customer expectations of décor, food and
price value. In this case, as MacArthur said in a rather different context, I
shall return.

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