Mediterranean cuisine is known for its use of
vegetables. Curiously, many of the most typical vegetables in the cuisine are
not native to the area, meaning they were imported and had to be named. As any
player in a telephone game knows, fascinating versions of the original can arise,
which can now be seen today in green grocer’s sign in any given country.
As an example, the history of the naming of tomatoes, peppers and eggplants
shows some of the methods of the madness of naming.
Tomatoes are a staple of Italian and most southern
European cooking. They originated in South America. The Aztecs referred to them
as tomatl, a name that the Spanish
brought back to Europe and is reflected in English and French, among others.
However, the Italians received the yellow version of the fruit. As with all
exotic foods, marketing is key. Therefore, it was called a “golden apple”, i.e., pomo d’oro,
which became pomodore in one word. The Hebrew story is even more wild.
In the late 19th century when Eliezer Ben Yehuda and others were
re-establishing Hebrew as a daily language and inventing words for modern
terms, Eliezer Ben Yehuda decided on the word עגבניה [agvania], which is derived from the root
for passion or great pleasure. As in most matters in Israel, many people disagreed
but eventually agvania became the known and accepted term of this
omnipresent vegetable. Marketing and accidents of import had an impact.
Peppers, another South American immigrant to European
kitchens, also took a curious path. Europeans had used pepper corns, an
imported nut, to spice their food for a long time. With the arrival of peppers,
both hot and sweet, the Europeans added an element and confused the matter.
Specifically, the word pepper refers both to the plant and spice. See paprika
in Hungarian and peperoni in Italian, which also designate the plant. In
English, the easy solution was the addition of bell or the color to the
vegetable name, e.g., green or bell peppers. However, in Israel, agriculture is
a passion. Local agronomists have always sought to improve variants, e.g., the
cherry tomato. For example, Israel stores always carry a light green bell papper,
ideal for stuffing. It is known as a Nahariya pepper because it was
developed near Nahariya, a small town on the coast near the Lebanese border.
Israelis are also major consumers of gombot, a red bell pepper. The name
derives from an Italian variant, a gamba, and now refers to most large
red bell peppers in Israel. Of course, each country has countless variants of
this pepper, which is far more than a spice.
Last but not least is the royal eggplant. Probably
originally from South Asia, it traveled via Persia, North Africa and Catalonia
to reach European kitchens. The word origin is the Sanskrit vātiga-gama, which means “the plant that cures the wind”,
and Arabic al-bādhinjān. That last version explains the French
“aubergine” (with the Arabic “the”, al, being absorbed as a root). As for
the English eggplant , it appears that initially the English in
India were rather fond of a white skinned variant, hence the eggplant.
As usual, Hebrew presents the most confusing story. Based on a post on the
subject, חציל [hatzil] is a new Hebrew word invented in the late 19th century
based on a rare Arabic word, حَيْصَل, [haizal].
As usual, many others suggested alternatives. The eggplant does enjoy a wide
variety of calling cards.
It is hard to imagine Mediterranean cooking or any
other kitchen without these basic vegetables. Yet, they came as immigrants and
experienced the same name confusion as many human immigrants have experienced.
A rose is a rose is a rose but it may have a local name, which is all the fun.
Nomenclature is a product of both intention and accident also in Mediterranean
vegetables.
All pictures from Pixabay
